La Roche-Posay Active C

La Roche-Posay Active C appears to provide good anti-wrinkle benefits, as evidenced by a double-blinded and controlled, albeit small, study.

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Effects


Grade Level of Evidence
A Double-blind, controlled study with more than 50 participants.
B Controlled study that is single-blind or has less than 50 participants.
C Controlled or comparative study.
D Uncontrolled or observational study.
Grade Effect Size of Effect Comments

D

Smoother skin

Moderate

Decreased skin roughness and the anisotropy index, reflecting a smoothing of the skin surface.

D

Wrinkle treatment

Mild

Enhances the expression and processing of type I collagen, leading to a decrease in the number of deep furrows.

D

Increased skin elasticity

Mild

The skin became significantly more supple post-treatment.

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Ingredients


Ascorbic Acid (5%), Water, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Propylene Glycol, Nylon-12, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Disodium EDTA, Acrylates Copolymer, Isobutane, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Parfum (Fragrance)
NAME ANTIOXIDANT UV PROTECTION COMEDOGENIC IRRITANT SAFETY
ASCORBIC ACID (ANTIOXIDANT, BUFFERING, MASKING, SKIN CONDITIONING) NO DATA NO DATA ALLOWED (SOURCE)
AQUA (SOLVENT) 0 0 ALLOWED (SOURCE)
GLYCERIN (DENATURANT, HUMECTANT, PERFUMING, SOLVENT) 0 (SEE SOURCES) 0 (SEE SOURCES) ALLOWED (SOURCE)
CYCLOPENTASILOXANE (EMOLLIENT, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SOLVENT) NO DATA NO DATA ALLOWED (SOURCE)
PROPYLENE GLYCOL (HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING, SOLVENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING) 0 (SEE SOURCES) 0 (SEE SOURCES) ALLOWED (SOURCE)
NYLON-12 (BULKING, OPACIFYING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING) NO DATA NO DATA ALLOWED (SOURCE)
SODIUM HYDROXIDE (BUFFERING, DENATURANT) NO DATA NO DATA RESTRICTED (SOURCE)
CITRIC ACID (BUFFERING, CHELATING, MASKING) NO DATA NO DATA ALLOWED (SOURCE)
PEG/PPG-18/18 DIMETHICONE (EMULSIFYING) NO DATA NO DATA ALLOWED (SOURCE)
DISODIUM EDTA (CHELATING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING) NO DATA NO DATA ALLOWED (SOURCE)
ACRYLATES COPOLYMER (ANTISTATIC, BINDING, FILM FORMING) NO DATA NO DATA ALLOWED (SOURCE)
ISOBUTANE (PROPELLANT) NO DATA NO DATA ALLOWED (SOURCE)
METHYLPARABEN (PRESERVATIVE) 0 (SEE SOURCES) 0 (SEE SOURCES) ALLOWED (SOURCE)
PROPYLPARABEN (PERFUMING, PRESERVATIVE) 0 (SEE SOURCES) 0 (SEE SOURCES) ALLOWED (SOURCE)
PARFUM (DEODORANT, MASKING, PERFUMING) NO DATA NO DATA ALLOWED (SOURCE)

Clinical Studies


Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study vs. placebo.

Products

La Roche-Posay Active C

Trial Design

Double-blind, randomized, controlled

Duration

6 months of treatment

Subjects

20 healthy females aged 51-59 years

Regimen

Applied a fingertip unit of La Roche-Posay Active C cream to the left or right half of the upper chest and the corresponding forearm

Methods of Assessment

Subjective clinical assessments

Volunteer self-assessments

Optical profilometry of silicone rubber replicas of the skin surface to quantify the depth and width of wrinkles and roughness features

Skin biopsies

Side Effects

None reported

Conflicts of Interest

2 of 9 authors were employees of La Roche-Posay Pharmaceutical Laboratories.

Effects observed in this study:

Both small and coarse wrinkles were significantly reduced. Deeper furrows disappeared while small furrows reappeared, implying reductions in wrinkle depth. Skin roughness as measured by optical profilometry declined, and skin biopsies showed an increase in elastic fibers that were not present in the skin that had not undergone treatment. The suppleness of the skin was also improved significantly in those subjects treated with La Roche-Posay Active C.

Topically applied vitamin C enhances the mRNA level of collagens I and III, their processing enzymes and tissue inhibitor of matrix metalloproteinase 1 in the human dermis.

Products

La Roche-Posay Active C

Trial Design

Randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled

Duration

6 months of treatment

Subjects

10 postmenopausal women aged 50-60 years old. 9 received hormone replacement therapy and 1 received only progesterone.

Regimen

Subjects applied La Roche-Posay Active C to the dorsal side of one upper forearm every night, and a placebo preparation to the other forearm.

Methods of Assessment

2 punch biopsies up to the hypoderms were collected at each site of topical application at the termination of treatment. 1 biopsy was used for measurement of mRNA and collagen extractability, the other was used for morphologic analysis and electron microscopy to evaluate sun damage.

Side Effects

None reported.

Conflicts of Interest

2 of the 9 authors worked for La Roche-Posay.

Effects observed in this study:

The steady state levels of type I collagen mRNAs, 3 extracellular procollagen processing enzymes (the amino- and carboxy-procollagen peptidases and lysyl oxidase), decorin and tissue inhibitor of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (TIMP-1) were significantly increased after topical application of La Roche-Posay Active C, compared with the placebo. However, the expression of elastin, fibriilin-1, fibrillin-2, 3 matrix metalloproteinases and TIMP-2 did not differ significantly between the 2 groups.

The participants' smoking habits and dietary intake of vitamin C was estimated after the end of the study through questionnaires. A correlation between dietary vitamin C intake and responsiveness to treatment was observed -- testers with the lowest dietary intakes of vitamin C were the most responsive to topically applied La Roche-Posay Active C, displaying the most constant stimulation of the mRNA levels for the collagens and their processing enzymes.

On the other hand, there was no correlation between histologic and ultrastructural signs of actinic damage and responsiveness to topical treatment with La Roche-Posay Active C.