Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a precursor of ascorbic acid, commonly known as vitamin C, that is made by esterifying ascorbic acid with a fatty acid called 2-hexyldecanoic acid (R).
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is more stable than ascorbic acid, but has been found to degrade rapidly under oxidative stress. Fortunately, it can be stabilised by the addition of the antioxidant acetyl zingerone (R).
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is lipid-soluble, which allows it to cross the lipophilic stratum corneum. At a concentration of 30%, it has been shown to penetrate an in vitro human skin model at least 10x more readily than 20% ascorbic acid (R).
After penetrating the skin, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is converted into ascorbic acid within the skin cells by enzymes called esterases (R).
Outcome | Grade | Effect | Studies | |||||||
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Wrinkles |
B
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Hyperpigmentation |
B
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Skin Redness |
C
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Melasma |
C
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Outcome | Effect | Frequency | Studies | |||||||
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Itching | ⇧ Increase |
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Peeling | ⇧ Increase |
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Skin Redness | ⇧ Increase |
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Skin Discomfort | ⇧ Increase |
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Contact Dermatitis | ⇧ Increase | — |